Socks with a Separately Knitted Heel and an Elegant Zigzag Pattern

Socks with a separately knitted heel and an elegant zigzag pattern are a stylish and comfortable project for knitting enthusiasts. Thanks to the striking geometric design and anatomically shaped construction, these socks look impressive and fit the foot perfectly. The separately worked heel allows for an adjustable fit and makes repairs easier if needed, while the zigzag pattern gives the design a modern and dynamic character.

This article is based on materials from the book Coop Knits Socks: Volume 2 by R. Coopey, design Orville.

Materials, Tools, and Knitting Techniques

YARN

Silver Version:
Lorna’s Laces Solemate (55% merino, 30% rayon, 15% nylon; 389 m [425 yds] per 100 g skein) — 1 skein in Dobson

Green Version:
Easyknits Deeply Wicked (100% superwash merino; 400 m [437 yds] per 100 g skein) — 1 skein in Moira

Small quantity of smooth 4-ply waste yarn.

NEEDLES

• 2.5 mm [UK 13–12 / US 1–2] circular needles, 80 cm [32 in] long, or DPNs
• Cable needle
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle

TENSION

• 36 sts and 50 rnds = 10 cm [4 in] in stockinette stitch
• 22 sts = 5 cm [2 in] over charted cable pattern
• 48 rnds = 10 cm [4 in] over charted cable pattern

SIZES

Small (Medium, Large)

36–38; 39–42; 43–46.

To fit foot circumference: 20.5 (23, 25.5) cm [8 (9, 10) in]

Actual sock circumference (unstretched): 18 (20.5, 22.5) cm [7 (8, 9) in]

Leg length to top of heel flap: 16 cm [6¼ in]

Foot length is fully adjustable within the pattern. Finished socks measure approximately 0.5 cm [¼ in] less than the actual foot length to ensure a snug fit.

PATTERN

ABBREVIATIONS

2/1 LC: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold at front of work, k1, then k2 from cable needle.

2/1 RC: Slip next st to cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, then k1 from cable needle.

2/1 LPC: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold at front of work, p1, then k2 from cable needle.

2/1 RPC: Slip next st to cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, then p1 from cable needle.

How to Knit Socks with a Separately Knitted Heel

First Sock with a Separately Knitted Heel

CUFF

Cast on 68 (76, 84) sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Place a marker for the beginning of the round.

Rounds 1 and 2: *P4, [k2, p2] 3 times, p4, [k2, p2] 3 (4, 5) times, k2; repeat from * once more.

Round 3: *P4, reading from right to left, work 12 sts from Row 1 of Chart A, p4, [k2, p2] 3 (4, 5) times, k2; repeat from * once more.

The last round sets the Chart A and rib patterns. Working the next row of Chart A each time, continue in pattern as established until Chart A has been completed 3 times (24 Chart A rounds; 26 rounds total).

LEG

Round 27: *P4, reading from right to left, work 22 sts from Row 1 of Chart B, [p2, k2] 2 (3, 4) times; repeat from * once more.

The last round sets the Chart B and rib patterns. Work as established until Chart B has been completed once (24 rounds).

Round 51: *P4, reading from right to left, work 22 sts from Row 1 of Chart C, [p2, k2] 2 (3, 4) times; repeat from * once more.

The last round sets the Chart C and rib patterns. Work as established until Chart C has been completed once (24 rounds).

HEEL SET-UP

Round 75: P4, work 22 sts from Row 1 of Chart B, [p2, k2] 2 (3, 4) times, use a piece of waste yarn to knit 34 (38, 42) sts to the end of the round. Slip these 34 (38, 42) sts back onto the left needle and then knit them again with the working yarn.

You now have 34 (38, 42) waste-yarn stitches in your fabric. After completing the toe, you will return to these stitches, remove the waste yarn, and work an afterthought heel.

FOOT

Round 76: P4, work 22 sts from Row 2 of Chart B, [p2, k2] 2 (3, 4) times, knit to end.

The last round sets the Chart B and rib pattern on the instep, and stockinette stitch on the sole. Continue to work as established until Chart B is complete.

Round 99: P4, work 22 sts from Row 1 of Chart C, [p2, k2] 2 (3, 4) times, knit to end.

The last round sets the Chart C and rib pattern on the instep, and stockinette stitch on the sole. Continue to work as established until Chart C is complete.

Round 123: P4, work 12 sts from Row 1 of Chart A, p4, [k2, p2] 3 (4, 5) times, k2, knit to end.

The last round sets the Chart A and rib pattern on the instep, and stockinette stitch on the sole. Continue to work as established until the sock measures 11.5 (12, 13.5) cm [4½ (4¾, 5¼) in] less than the desired foot length when measured from the row of waste-yarn stitches.

TOE

Round 1: Knit.

Round 2: K1, ssk, k28 (32, 36), k2tog, k1, pm, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
64 (72, 80) sts.

Round 3: Knit.

Round 4: *K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker; repeat from * once more. 4 sts decreased.

Repeat the last 2 rounds a further 10 (11, 13) times. 44 (48, 56) sts decreased; 20 (24, 24) sts remain.

Cut yarn, leaving a 30cm [12in] tail. Graft stitches together using Kitchener stitch. Weave in ends.

AFTERTHOUGHT HEEL

For socks with a separately knitted heel pick up the right leg (side) of the 34 (38, 42) main-yarn stitches below the row of waste-yarn stitches.

Turn the sock and repeat the process, picking up 34 (38, 42) stitches from the other side of the waste yarn. You now have 68 (76, 84) stitches on your needles.

Carefully remove the waste yarn, ensuring all stitches are safely on the needles. Begin working in the round as follows:

Round 1: K34 (38, 42), pick up and knit 2 sts in the gap between the sole and instep, k34 (38, 42), pick up and knit 2 sts in the gap between the sole and instep, and place marker for the beginning of the round. 72 (80, 88) sts.

SMALL SIZE ONLY

Round 2: Knit 72 sts.

MEDIUM SIZE ONLY

Round 2: *K38, k2tog; repeat from * once more. 78 sts.

LARGE SIZE ONLY

Round 2: *K20, k2tog; repeat from * to end of round. 84 sts.

ALL SIZES

Knit 8 rounds.

SHAPE HEEL

LARGE SIZE ONLY

Round 1: *K12, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 78 sts.

Round 2: Knit.

LARGE AND MEDIUM SIZES

Round 3: *K11, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 72 sts.

Round 4: Knit.

ALL SIZES

Round 5: *K10, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 66 sts.

Round 6: Knit.

Round 7: *K9, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 60 sts.

Round 8: Knit.

Round 9: *K8, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 54 sts.

Round 10: Knit.

Round 11: *K7, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 48 sts.

Round 12: Knit.

Round 13: *K6, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 42 sts.

Round 14: Knit.

Round 15: *K5, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 36 sts.

Round 16: Knit.

Round 17: *K4, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 30 sts.

Round 18: Knit.

Round 19: *K3, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 24 sts.

Round 20: Knit.

Round 21: *K2, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 18 sts.

Round 22: *K1, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 12 sts.

Round 23: *K2tog; repeat from * to end. 6 sts.

Break the yarn, leaving a 15cm [6in] tail. Thread the tail through the remaining stitches and pull tightly to close the heel.

Weave in the ends.

Second Sock with a Separately Knitted Heel

The second sock with a separately knitted heel is worked as a mirror image of the first sock.

Cast on 68 (76, 84) sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Place a marker for the beginning of the round.

CUFF

Rounds 1 and 2: *K2, [p2, k2] 3 (4, 5) times, p4, [p2, k2] 3 times, p4; repeat from * once more.

Round 3: *K2, [p2, k2] 3 (4, 5) times, p4, work 12 sts from Row 5 of Chart A, p4; repeat from * once more.

The last round sets the Chart A and rib patterns. Work as established until Row 4 of Chart A has been completed for the third time (24 rounds total).

LEG

Round 27: *[k2, p2] 2 (3, 4) times, work 22 sts from Row 1 of Chart C, p4; repeat from * once more.

The last round sets the Chart C and rib patterns.

Work as established until Chart C has been completed once (24 rounds).

Round 51: *[k2, p2] 2 (3, 4) times, work 22 sts from Row 1 of Chart B, p4; repeat from * once more.

The last round sets the Chart B and rib patterns.

Work as established until Chart B has been completed once (24 rounds).

HEEL SET-UP

Round 75: [k2, p2] 2 (3, 4) times, work 22 sts from Row 1 of Chart C, p4, use a piece of waste yarn to knit 34 (38, 42) sts to the end of the round. Slip these 34 (38, 42) sts back onto the left needle and then knit them again with the working yarn.

You now have 34 (38, 42) waste-yarn stitches in your fabric. After completing the toe, you will return to these stitches, remove the waste yarn, and work an afterthought heel.

FOOT

Round 76: *[k2, p2] 2 (3, 4) times, work 22 sts from Row 2 of Chart C, p4, knit to end.

The last round sets the Chart C and rib pattern on the instep, and stockinette stitch on the sole. Continue to work as established until Chart C is complete.

Round 99: *[k2, p2] 2 (3, 4) times, work 22 sts from Row 1 of Chart B, p4, knit to end.

The last round sets the Chart B and rib pattern on the instep, and stockinette stitch on the sole. Continue to work as established until Chart B is complete.

Round 123: K2, [p2, k2] 3 (4, 5) times, p4, work 12 sts from Row 5 of Chart A, p4, knit to end.

The last round sets the Chart A and rib pattern on the instep, and stockinette stitch on the sole. Continue to work as established until the sock measures 11.5 (12, 13.5) cm [4½ (4¾, 5¼) in] less than the desired foot length when measured from the row of waste-yarn stitches.

TOE AND HEEL

Work the toe and heel as for Sock One.

Conclusion

Socks with a separately knitted heel are a practical and modern knitting technique that ensures an excellent fit and makes it easy to replace the heel when it becomes worn. This construction makes socks more durable and comfortable to wear, while also offering plenty of opportunities to experiment with stitch patterns and techniques. Once you master this method, you will be able to create neat, functional, and aesthetically pleasing socks for any season.

Read our other articles about socks with a separately knitted heel:

1. Patchwork-Style Socks with a Propeller Heel Knitted with Needles.
2. How to Knit Toe-Up Socks from Self-Striping Yarn with an Additional Cast-On for the Heel.
3. Socks with an Afterthought Heel and Star Decreases.
4. https://vaizaniespicami.ru/noski-s-zamenyaemoj-pyatkoj-spicami/.
5. Cozy Men’s Socks with a Peasant Heel in 1 Evening/