A folded hem cast-on is used to give the edges of a knitted garment a neat appearance and good shape retention.
A knitted folded hem adds extra structure and thickness to the fabric. Thanks to the folded edge, sweater hems and cuffs, as well as sock and mitten cuffs, become especially sturdy and warm.
For a cleaner and more polished result, it is recommended to knit the folded hem with needles one size smaller than those used for the main fabric. If the project is worked with yarn held double or with multiple strands, the hem can be knitted with fewer strands to reduce bulk.
A folded hem begins with a provisional cast-on. In this method, the stitches are cast on using a waste yarn in a contrasting color, which can later be removed easily.
Once removed, the live stitches are placed onto an additional needle. Be careful not to lose any stitches during this process.
After casting on, continue knitting in stockinette stitch. When the folded section reaches the desired height, work 1–2 rows in reverse stockinette stitch.
The transition from reverse stockinette back to stockinette creates a natural fold line. To make this transition less noticeable, slip the first stitch of the next row purlwise without knitting it.
Continue knitting until the section behind the fold is the same height as the section in front of the fold.
To join the two layers, remove the waste yarn and place the released stitches onto an extra needle. Fold the fabric with the wrong sides facing inward so that the live stitches are aligned. On the next row, knit the stitches together in pairs: one stitch from the main needle and one stitch from the needle holding the released stitches. Continue in this manner to the end of the row until all stitches have been joined. The folded-hem technique is illustrated in the diagram.
Afterward, continue knitting the garment according to the pattern, either in stockinette stitch or in the chosen stitch pattern.
We hope that after studying this tutorial, you will be able to confidently cast on stitches and create a neat folded hem in your knitting projects.
To learn how to knit socks that begin with a folded hem edge, read our article: Cozy Sheep Pattern Socks Knit with Needles.
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